Ozark Natural Division: Places that Spark the Imagination

How is it that some places simultaneously spark our imaginations and capture our hearts? I am not sure of the answer to that question, but I do know of places in Illinois that you can visit which meet both requirements. Several of them can be found within the Ozark Natural Division, one of 15 Natural Divisions in Illinois.

What can you explore there? A sinkhole plain, cool caves, mature forests, towering bluffs along the Mississippi River, and hill prairies. Oh, the hill prairies!

The Local Landscape

The Illinois Ozark Natural Division is part of the Ozark uplift and runs in a narrow band through southwestern Illinois, covering parts of St. Clair, Monroe, Randolph, Jackson, Union and Alexander counties. Nearby Natural Divisions include the Lower Mississippi River Bottomlands, Shawnee Hills, and Coastal Plain. The Conservation Opportunity Areas (COAs) located in parts of this Division include the Hill Prairie Corridor, the Sinkhole Plain, and the LaRue-Pine Hills-Western Shawnee-Trail of Tears COAs.

Geological Wonderland

The Mississippi River long ago divided Illinois’ limestone bluffs from the rest of the Ozark Plateau. While the bluffs along the Mississippi are clearly breathtaking and definitely worth a drive to see, some of Illinois’ other scenic wonders may not be as readily apparent, tucked away underground and away from the eyes of the casual observer.

The Ozarks Natural Division is divided into three sections geologically. The northern section was glaciated during the Illinoian glacial episode, except for portions of St. Clair, Monroe and Randolph counties. This section is underlain with pure limestone and is where you can find the sinkhole plain, a unique karst area that contains a labyrinth of sinkholes and a subterranean world of caves. In fact, according to the Illinois Department of Natural Resources (IDNR), this sinkhole region is estimated to have the densest concentration of sinkholes in the entire country, with more than 10,000 sinkholes identified! And with more than 100 recorded caves, Monroe County has more caves than any other county in Illinois.

Stepping into a cave is an other-worldly experience with the drop in temperature, the damp of the rocks and the deep darkness. The caves are filled with ancient, intricate geologic formations of speleothems such as stalactites, stalagmites and flowstones.

Moving into the Central Section, the geology changes and here you can wander through sandstone ravines, follow sparkling streams, and imagine what life was like for those who created the prehistoric rock art in the area. The Southern Section missed the grinding action of the glaciers and is composed of cherty limestone. Here you can enjoy barrens, more hill prairies, and species that are found only in large tracts of forest.

Exploring the North Section of the Ozark Natural Division

Fogelpole Cave Nature Preserve and Paul Wightman Subterranean Nature Preserve

Fogelpole Cave is the largest cave in Illinois. With over 15 miles of mapped passage, it takes researchers hours to get to some parts of the cave. (Spoiler alert: this cave is off-limits to the public, but other caving opportunities await nearby.) A small portion of the cave lies under Fogelpole Cave Nature Preserve which is owned by the IDNR. As added protection for a portion of the cave system, the Fogelpole Cave Nature Preserve is surrounded by the Paul Wightman Subterranean Nature Preserve, a 535-acre site owned by Clifftop. This area protects the largest and most diverse cave system in all of Illinois, and it takes the dedication and talents of many people to maintain such a special place. In addition, the recent 44-acre tract known as the Anessi Wildlife Sanctuary, purchased by the Illinois Audubon Society, provides further protection for the recharge area.

If you visit, be aware that Fogelpole Cave Nature Preserve is only open to the public on the surface. The cave is not accessible to the public and is gated to protect federal and state-endangered species as well as to protect the cave’s physical features from damage. The Illinois Nature Preserves Commission describes it as “the most biologically diverse cave system in Illinois, including 18 globally rare and 22 state-rare species. It is one of the few sites that hosts populations of the state and federally and state-endangered Illinois cave amphipod (Gammarus acherondytes), a small shrimp-like animal that is known to inhabit caves in Monroe County…and nowhere else on the planet.” It also is home to the federal and state-endangered Indiana bat and Gray bat, and the federally and state-threatened Long-eared bat.

Those looking to explore underground can make the quick drive two miles northwest to visit the IDNR-owned Illinois Caverns, which is open to the public during certain times of the year and with a permit.

White Rock Nature Preserve Complex

The White Rock Nature Preserve Complex is comprised of the White Rock Nature Preserve, the White Rock Land and Water Reserve located within the Southwestern Illinois Hill Prairie Corridor and the 54-acre Luella Schaefer Memorial Hill Prairie Land and Water Reserve. This is a land of extremely rare habitats including a medley of high-quality loess hill prairies and limestone glades embedded throughout a large block of upland forest. Here the limestone bluffs tower above the Mississippi River floodplain with cliffs over 350 feet high and steep slopes covered by mature forest sprinkled with boulders.

A recurrent theme throughout this Division, this complex is home to many Illinois-threatened or endangered species. Animals include the sky-blue cerulean warbler, the only species of scorpion in Illinois the Plains scorpion, the venomous timber rattlesnake, the secretive Great Plains rat snake as well as the smallest snake in Illinois, the flathead snake. Plant enthusiasts may find rare species such as the woolly buckthorn, Missouri coneflower, stickleaf, climbing milkweed and the crested coralroot orchid. The limestone outcrops shelter a host of ferns including the baby lip fern and purple cliff brake fern.

If you visit, the White Rock Nature Preserve owned by Clifftop is open to the public and provides out-and-back trails that lead to enchanting spots such as Edna’s Dell hill prairie and Overlook Prairie. You can park in the lot on Bluff Road but know before you go that there are no amenities on site. (You’re welcome.)

White Rock Land and Water Reserve is not open for hiking, but hunters take note—there are opportunities for archery deer hunting, youth shotgun deer hunting and turkey hunting. To participate in the hunting program here hunters must be enrolled in the Illinois Recreational Access Program (IRAP).

Fults Hill Prairie State Natural Area

The Fults Hill Prairie State Natural Area has been owned and managed by the IDNR since the 1970s. Divided by Bluff Road, the Fults Hill Prairie Nature Preserve and Kidd Lake Marsh State Natural Area are home to a variety of plants and animals, some of which are found nowhere else in the state.

At a bit over 500 acres, Fults Hill Prairie Nature Preserve is a gem of upland forest, prairie and glade communities. Come prepared to linger because this site has the largest complex of high-quality loess hill prairies in Illinois. The locals (and some of us non-locals) rightly love it, and this site is also recognized federally by the U.S. Department of Interior as a National Natural Landmark.

For those who prefer to take a walk on the wetter side, Kidd Lake State Natural Area is a prime example of the formerly expansive wetlands of the Mississippi floodplain known as the American Bottoms. The marsh is home to an array of wetland birds, amphibians and reptiles, including some that are now rare in Illinois. It is also a vital place for migrating waterfowl to rest and feed during their journey.

Exploring the Central Section of the Ozark Natural Division

Piney Creek Ravine

Piney Creek Ravine is located in Randolph County and is a plant-lovers delight. This area is known for mostly undisturbed dry upland forest on rocky slopes and canyon bluff tops as well as moist ravine forests. Here you can find post oak-black oak forest, scattered xeric forest and sandstone glade plant communities. With exposed rock and thin soil conditions, the rare shortleaf pine, farkleberry and sedge species thrive.

Spring is a great time to visit the ravine forests with their splendid show of wildflowers. Along the sandy stream banks, you can see a variety of moisture-loving plants such as sedges, smartweeds and scouring rushes. The ravines also provide shade and the proper growing conditions for several species of mosses and liverworts. If you go, also be on the lookout for poison ivy, which is very common in the area.

Piney Creek Ravine is perhaps best known for containing the largest body of prehistoric rock art within Illinois. Different forms of rock art can be seen here. The petroglyphs were created by using stone tools to peck and grind images into the softer sandstone. The pictographs were created by grinding minerals into powder and mixing them with animal fat to paint lasting yellow or red designs. Researchers have documented almost 200 designs within the ravine and have dated the images to the Late Woodland (A.D. 500-1000) and Mississippian (A.D. 1000-1550) periods. The rock art includes images of human figures and hands, deer, snakes, birds, and a canoe.

Exploring the Southern Section of the Ozark Natural Division

Trail of Tears State Forest

Trail of Tears State Forest is blessed with an abundant flora influenced by the terrain. Black oaks, white oaks and hickories cover the dry ridgetops and south-facing slopes. Barrens and hill prairies coexist with gnarled trees, wild azalea and low-bush blueberry. North-facing slopes and protected coves provide the shade preferred by American beech, tulip tree and sweetgum. In the stream valleys, American elm, sycamore and sugar maple rise above redbud and spicebush.

This site boasts about 620 species of flowering plants and ferns. Along with a myriad of songbirds, this area is home to flying squirrels, red and grey foxes and secretive bobcats. If you go, mind where you step, timber rattlesnakes and northern copperheads both call this place home.

Some of Trail of Tears State Forest’s natural ecosystems are permanently protected within the 220+ acre Ozark Hills Nature Preserve which is closed to hunting.

People have been enjoying this area for a very long time. The area was historically used by indigenous people who hunted here and established their settlements along the Mississippi River and Clear Creek, created rock art in nearby areas, and mined chert for tool making at Iron Mountain, located east of Trail of Tears.

The name of the Trail of Tears State Forest memorializes a grimmer period of history. During the 1830s, the U.S. Army forced people of the Choctaw, Chickasaw, Seminole, Creek and Cherokee nations to move from their homelands in the southeast to reservations in the Oklahoma Territory. Along the route they overwintered in camps 4 miles south of what is now the Trail of Tears State Forest’s southern boundary.

The Trail of Tears is a network of different routes covering over 5,000 miles through nine states: Alabama, Arkansas, Georgia, Illinois, Kentucky, Missouri, North Carolina, Oklahoma and Tennessee. During the forced relocation, thousands of people died from the bitter cold, starvation and disease.

Clear Springs Wilderness Area and Bald Knob Wilderness Area

Clear Springs Wilderness Area and Bald Knob Wilderness Area are considered two separate areas, as they are divided by Hutchins Creek, but both are located within the beautiful Shawnee National Forest. Clear Springs straddles Jackson and Union counties. Bald Knob is the second largest wilderness in the Shawnee National Forest and is located in Union County. Inspiration Point Trail in the Clear Springs Wilderness leads to one of the tallest scenic overlooks in the Shawnee National Forest, providing a view to LaRue Pine Hills on the left, Muddy Levee Road, and Big Muddy River to the right. Both Clear Springs and Bald Knob are prime spots to spend a day scouting for neo-tropical songbirds, wild turkey, and white-tailed deer.

With so many places to explore in the Ozarks Natural Division, it isn’t possible to highlight every one of them in just one article. If you’ve made it this far, I can trust you are an avid reader like me. So you may enjoy Quinta Scott’s “Above the American Bottom: The Bluffs and the Sinkhole Plain” for a more in depth tour of this area. And be sure to read Patty Gillespie’s “Partaking Partly of Each, The Surface and Subsurface of the Karst Region of Illinois” in this issue of OutdoorIllinois Journal.

Of course, the best way to learn about a place is to explore it yourself! So, take a late summer drive and see which places in the Ozark Natural Division capture your heart and imagination.

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Laura Kammin is a Natural Resources Specialist with the National Great Rivers Research and Education Center. She formerly held positions at Illinois-Indiana Sea Grant, University of Illinois Extension, Prairie Rivers Network and the Illinois Natural History Survey. She received her master’s degree in wildlife ecology from the University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign.